Hair Model 01: Diana Zhou

 

As promised I will be selecting one (possibly more) hair model per month who is open and able to trust me to cut and color there hair in a style of my choosing. These models must be open to the use of bleach, permanent hair color and semi-permanent hair color INCLUDING the use of “alternative” or “punky” vivid colors. Hair models will receive this cut and color service at little (hair color expenses) or no cost in exchange for my ability to exercise creative freedoms and rights to photograph your before and after, as well as use said photographs for any online or print advertising I may do in the future. If you are interested in being considered for future hair modeling opportunities please inquire through the Contact page.

 

February’s Hair Model is Diana Zhou. Providing me completely unprocessed hair, or in the hair world what we call “virgin” hair,  it was a pleasure having  a blank canvas to work with! In the paragraphs below I am going to give a detailed description of the steps and products used to transform Diana’s hair from the “Before” to the “After” images! I hope you enjoy reading this and if anyone has questions about the process, please comment and I will be happy to answer!

 

BEFORE

PRODUCTS & TOOLS

Goldwell Silk Lift High Performance Lightener – Up to 7 levels of lift

Goldwell Silk Lift Conditioning Cream Developer – 9% / 30 volume

1 Manic Panic Rock & Roll Red

1 Manic Panic Purple Haze

1 Manic Panic Hot Hot Pink

TIGI Colour Creative (Permanent) 4V & 5V

TIGI Colour Mix Master 0/22 VV

3 color Bowls

3 TInt Brushes

Towels

Clips

Chemical Cape

Step 1: I sectioned out a horseshoe shaped section on the top of Diana’s head from what would be the recession ( or slightly above the temple) back around the crown and back up to the hairline on the other side.

Step 2: Apply a barrier cream or use conditioner as a barrier for the skin around the hair line and directly to the top layer of the hair below the horseshoe part line. This will product the hair in the bottom section and provide a stickiness so you can then lay foil on to separate the top section from the bottom.

Step 3: Mix 70 ml Goldwell Silk Lift Conditioning Cream Developer – 9% / 30 volume with 2 scoops Goldwell Silk Lift High Performance Lightener – Up to 7 levels of lift. I dropped a 1 inch section along her hairline. Then, using thin slices (about quarter inch) I applied the lightener 1/2 inch from the scalp down through the ends. Using thin sections ensures thorough even saturation for best results. Once the lightener is applied to the entire horseshoe section (except along the hairline), allow it to process until desired results are achieved. Goldwell suggests a maximum of 45 minutes. After 45 minutes only the last few sections to have bleach applied still needed a to be processed longer. I allowed the bleach to process for an additional 10 minutes. Then I rinsed the hair with cool/luke warm water; shampooed and conditioned with the Moroccan Oil Moisture line.

Step 4: Blow dry hair.

Step 5: Grab your 3 color bowls.

  • In the first, Transfer 2 ounces of Rock & Roll Red to a tint bowl.
  • In the second bowl, Transfer 2 ounces of Purple Haze and the remaining 2 ounces of Rock & Roll Red. Mix well.
  • In the third bowl, Transfer 1.5 ounces of Hot Hot Pink.

 

Step 6: Diana parts her hair on her right side. This color technique works best with side part styles. After parting her hair I dropped the hairline, unbleached section. This and the underneath, unbleached section will be colored last. All Manic Panic color is now applied in slices that radiate from a single point on the parting. As I followed the pattern below the foils created a circle.

 

  • 2 slices Hot Hot Pink
  • 4 slices Rock & Roll Red
  • SKIP 2 slices. Leave these out to be colored later.
  • 3 slices of the Purple/Red mix
  • 2 slices of Hot Hot Pink
  • 4 slices Rock & Roll Red
  • SKIP 2 slices. Leave these out to be colored later.
  • There was only a small amount of bleached hair left so I finished with 1 Hot Hot Pink Slice and 2 slices of Purple/Red mix

 

Step 7: Mix 1/2 tube of TIGI Colour Creative 4V + 1/2 tube of TIGI Colour Creative 5V + 1/2 tube TIGI Mix Master 0/22 VV with 2.5 ounces TIGI 30 volume cream developer. Apply this color to all remaining hair, including the roots above all foils. This color will lift her natural black every so slightly to allow for a violet shimmer.

Step 8: Process for 20-25 minutes.

Step 9: Rinse with cool/luke warm water. Again I used the Moroccan Oil Moisture shampoo and conditioner.

Step 10: I cut an asymmetrical style with graduated, angled layers.

Step 11: Blow dry with TIGI Bed Head Control Freak Serum.

 

AFTER

 

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