Fight Deregulation!

 

Apparently in an effort to cut state budgets, many states have and/or are considering eliminating cosmetology licensing, state board examinations and other regulatory measures. This proposal has caused an uproar in the industry amongst its professionals.

What does this mean?

  • Individuals will no longer be required to attend school, pass exams and obtain a license to perform physical and chemical services on the public. When chemical services and performed incorrectly, the client is subjected to undesirable results and potentially exposed to chemical burns and/or loss of hair.
  • Deregulations will eliminate the need for attending school. There are approximately 70 beauty schools in the state of Michigan alone. Imagine how many jobs would be lost if deregulation occurred in Michigan!
  • Currently licensed professionals would feel that there time (1500 hours are required in the state of Michigan to become licensed)and their money (when I attended Michigan College of Beauty tuition was $15,000) would be wasted.
  • Sanitation and disease control would no longer be taught to professionals and these practices over time  would diminish due to lack of knowledge and monitoring by the state. Right now the state board visits salons once per year to ensure that these procedures are up to code.
  • No quality control. How does a client know that their stylist is properly trained. Anyone would be allowed to apply for salon positions or even open their own salons without proper training.

To learn more about deregulation and participate in a Q & A on the topic register now for a free webinar, on Monday, March 5, 2012 at 12pm Eastern time, brought to us by the Professional Beauty Association.

Brandon Audette: Mens Haircut

My good friend Brandon came to see me today at Beauty (SALON) and I treated him to a haircut for his birthday that was this past Thursday. We were going for the disconnected, undercut look seen recently on musician, Greg Paulus, of No Regualar Play and Matthew Dear’s live band.

Greg Paulus

 

Greg Paulus on left.

Last time Brandon came to see me his hair on top needed to grow just a bit more to achieve this look. However, this time it was long enough. I think this might be a trend in men’s hair that we will see more of this year and I welcome it! Brandon has named this haircut “The Audette,” check it out!

 

For those of you who don’t know Brandon Audette, known by some formerly as Brandon Blank, he like Greg is also a musician. Brandon is a DJ in the Detroit area known for his love of slow jams and his determination to share the music that moves him with everyone around him. Check out his recent dj mix for Underland Radio on 88.7 WJCU out of Cleveland and follow him on SoundCloud.com for his latest mixes!

Extension Guide: Pre-tipped Keratin Fusion VS Custom Fusion

There are so many factors in deciding which of the two methods I provide is best for you. In this blog I am going to do my best to lay it all out there for you including pros and cons to both methods and explaining why I charge different prices for each method.

 

Donna Bella Milan Kera-link Pro pre-tipped Keratin Fusion Extensions (Hot Fusion)

PROS

  • Stronger, longer lasting bonds with no slippage or shedding. As long as you don’t have a short top layer, I have clients who have worn their extensions for 4 months without losing a single piece.
  • High quality 100% human hair comparable to Great Lengths and Ultrastrands and in my opinion, better quality than So-Cap and Lox at a LOWER COST. Donna Bella 18 inch hair cost $38.75/20 pieces and 22 inch hair cost $50/20 pieces. Compared to other companies 18 inch hair often starts at $50 per pack.
  • Most clients need 3/4 head of extensions for length and thickness. Most clients do not need to go all the way up and this also allows for your natural hair to lay over and cover the extension bonds. 3/4 head stops around the temple area and consists on average of 140-160 individual extensions. At 18 inches, 160 pieces  is equivalent to 8 (20 piece) packs. 8 X $38.75 = $310 average cost of hair
  • Initial hair cost is slightly more for keratin fusion extensions but actually cost less because it lasts twice as long.
  • Since I do not have to make these extensions by hand my time is cut in HALF.  As we all know, TIME IS MONEY and therefore my service cost for keratin fusion extensions is $150 Less.
  • Since the Donna Bella Milan hair is sold in packs of 20 extensions and offered in 36 different colors (18 inch) and 13 different colors (22 inch) clients have the ability to mix and match colors for a multidimensional color at the same price as if you were a solid color.
  • Donna Bella offers FREE shipping on orders over $125.
  • If you are in a hurry to get this service done and my schedule always for your appointment, you may chose to pay for your hair to be shipped over night.

CONS (pre-tipped keratin Fusion)

  • If you have a shorter hair style and/or are just looking to add thickness that does not require 18 inch or longer hair, the excess hair will be cut off and wasted.
  • Kera-link pro pre-tipped extensions only come in one size, 1 gram per individual extension. If you have very thin, fine hair the Kera-link extensions can be cut in half but if you already have thick hair and are just looking for the longest thickest hair you can get the pre-tipped extensions limit the amount of hair you can apply. For example a 3/4 head of Kera-link extensions takes about 160 strands equal to 160 grams. Now compare this to a client of mine who I custom make each strand thicker than the pre-tipped kera-link extensions. We purchase 2 bundles of hair and make about 100 pieces. Even though I put 60 more kera-link extensions than the custom fusions, the weight of two bundles is approximately 227 grams and therefore results in thicker hair.
  • A tool is used to melt the keratin bond directly to your hair. This is completely safe on your hair when used appropriately by a licensed professional. However, if your hair is damaged and very fine it is then more fragile and susceptible to damage of direct heat. In this case, custom fusion extensions may be a better option for you.

Princess Hair Custom Fusion Extensions (Hot Fusion)

PROS

  • Completely customized to each clients hair (fine to coarse and thin to thick).
  • Available in 14 inch, 18 inch and 22 inch straight and various wavy and curly textures.
  • You get more hair, by weight, for the money. This means you either get more pieces (leaving some left to use toward your next service) or the ability to make each strand thicker if your natural hair allows for the extra weight. By using this method I can double the amount of hair in an individual pre-tipped Donna Bella extension. The end result of this is even thicker, fuller, more voluminous hair!
  • No direct heat. Adhesive is applied to hair with a special gun. No iron tool comes in direct contact with your natural hair.

CONS (Custom Fusion Extensions)

  • Hair is purchased in bundles opposed to packs of 20. This means you are limited to how many different colors you want in your hair because will need to buy an entire bundle for each color. To do a full head of extensions 1.5-2 bundles are required allowing you to chose 1-2 colors. However if you wanted a third color, you would need to purchase a third bundle costing you an additional $100-$170 depending on the length.
  • Since this hair is not factory pre-tipped and I will be custom hand-making each individual extension it nearly doubles the time. I set aside time in my schedule to make your hair before you arrive to have them put in. I charge $150 extra for this method to cover the time and bonding materials used to make  the extensions.
  • I required a hair deposit to be made for the total cost of your hair 1 week in advance. This ensures that I am able to go purchase your hair for you and fit the hair making time into my schedule prior to the service.
  • These bonds are more flexible but tend to breakdown over time. Use of oils and conditioners at the scalp and near the bonds will start to loosen your bonds and eventually cause slippage or shedding if you are not careful. These bonds can be worn out for 2-3 months (pre-tipped keratin last longer) but clients often come every 4-6 weeks to have “fills.” A fill is a term used for a service where I remove the extensions along your hair line and the highest row as well as any extensions that are visibly breaking down more, are slipping, or shedding. Then I replace those extensions with new ones. This ensures that your hair is fresh and always looking its best. Since your extensions grow out with your hair and your extensions might become visible as they grow out, it is important to replace these pieces on top and around your hair line to ensure that you are keeping your bonds hidden and undetectable.  Even though the pre-tipped keratin extensions last longer some extensions on top might need to be touched up after a couple months of growth if the clients natural hair is shorter or very thin on top.

Comparing Average Cost

3/4 Head 18 inch pre-tipped keratin fusion                                                                  3/4 Head 18 inch Custom Fusion

Hair = $310                                                                                                                             Hair = $270 (1-2 colors)

Service = $300                                                                                                                        Service = $450

Total = $610  (lasts 3-4 months)                                                                                       Total = $720 (lasts 2-3 months)

* Wearing extensions longer than my recommended time increases the risk of damaging your natural hair *

***Coming Soon***

COLD FUSION METHOD

Cold fusion is a new method, and is meant to be gentle for the hair. This method uses a keratin-based polymer to attach extensions to the root. As this method uses no heat, it is good for fine or thin hair. The polymer offers more flexibility than hot-glue, and results in more natural-feeling hair.

Cold Fusion bonding uses ultrasound waves that are transformed into mechanical energy. The vibration caused by the ultrasound energy is directed only to the area where the 100% keratin tip of the extension meets the client’s natural hair. This vibration crystallizes the bond, forming a strong, invisible and long-lasting hold. This occurs without using any heat, which can cause damage to the hair or a weaker and more visible bond.

The earlier hot fusion method, requires a special heated tool known as a hot fusion connector to melt the bond into the hair for it to adhere securely. The tool will not allow for extension to be added near the scalp due to the heat. With cold fusion, however, the bond is attached with a polymer that isn’t affected be heat. Cold fusion will allow for addition of extensions in the front of the head. With cold fusion, you can wash and style your hair as you normally would.

Other benefits include adding more volume to thinning hair. Women experiencing alopecia can now have hair extensions bonded directly to their fragile and thinning hair, effectively filling out scalp with beautiful real hair. In addition, topical hair re-growth solutions such as minoxidil can still be applied without concern.

One especially wonderful benefit of this new cold fusion technology due to its ability to bond very close to the scalp, is helping chemotherapy patients feel like themselves again, while looking more normal. Hair extensions can be bonded to the short and newly re-growing hair of people who have undergone chemotherapy, giving them a full head of real hair without the use of uncomfortable and noticeable wigs.

This Cold Fusion method will be available with pre-tipped AND custom fusion extensions. The hair options remain the same, but for an additional $50 the ultrasonic cold fusion tool will be used to apply the hair for stronger, longer lasting bonds that is better for your hair.  The main reason people chose to wear micro bead or micro link extensions over fusion is because of the NO HEAT factor. But the micro beads can often slip and/or shed and can often be bothersome when brushing. The Cold Fusion method does use heat but it only produces heat when the tool is closed on the bond for the 3-5 seconds that it requires. Once released and when not in use the tool is cold. This is much safer for both the stylist and client. The heat is much more direct and the bond cools faster allowing for a faster application closer to the scalp.

Ask Lindsay: Hydrogen Peroxide

Today’s question comes from middle school student, Cassie, who is conducting research for her school science fair. Due to the age of this recipient I redacted any personal information that may identify her to the public.

Hello,

My name is Cassie [redacted]. I am a student at [redacted]. For my science class we are required to do a science fair. I have always enjoyed doing my hair and others hair, so for my question I chose, ‘How does the amount of hydrogen peroxide used in a hair highlight treatment affect the final color of the hair?’ If you could answer that question for me I would be extremely grateful. Thanks for taking time out of your busy day to read this.

Sincerely,
Cassie [redacted]

 

Hi Cassie!

To answer your question, the amount of hydrogen peroxide (or developer as we refer to it in the salon) can vary depending on the lightener (bleach) you are using. Always check the mixing instructions on the bleach packaging.
Often times the ratio of bleach to hydrogen peroxide is 1:1, for example 1 ounce of bleach mixed with 1 ounce of hydrogen peroxide. However, like I said, this ratio varies.
For example, the bleach I like to use is called Goldwell Silk Lift High Performance Lightener. They are a German company and use the metric system in Europe. They instruct 35 ml (equal to approximately 1.2 ounces) mixed with one 25 gram scoop of their lightener (equal to about .882 ounces). As you can see with this company the mixing ratio is close to equal parts but not quite.
Although using the correct mixing ration is very important, it is also important to understand that there are 4 different levels of hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide developers are oxidizing agents and are measured in volumes.
The volume refers to the amount of oxygen that would be removed from a peroxide solution if the molecules were broken into components.
In the United State we use four different Volumes: 10 volume, 20 volume, 30 volume and 40 volume. The higher the volume, the more lift you can achieve. Higher volumes are stronger and can be more damaging to the hair. It is also important to know that it is not advised to use higher than 20 volume on the scalp. Allowing 30 or 40 volume developers in contact with the skin can cause burns.
To understand the results of a highlight service you need to factor in the hair you are working on. When referring to the lightness or darkness of natural hair color we use a scale of 1 to 10 and refer to them as levels.
Level 1 is the darkest black. Level 10 is the lightest natural blond. An unnatural “bleach blonde” with the appearance of a white blond is described as a level 11 or 12.
Many bleaches claim they can achieve up to 7 levels of lift depending on the developer used.
10 volume (or lower) is usually used to deposit color on the hair without changing the level of lightness or darkness.
20 volume is used to lift 1-2 levels.
30 volume is used to lift 3-4 levels.
40 volume is used to lift 5-7 levels.
These are generalized results and some hair may be more or less resistant.
Here is an example:
    Someone with black hair wants highlights. If lightener (bleach) is mixed with 40 volume developer (hydrogen peroxide). The results will be between a level 5-7. These will not result in a pretty blonde highlight. Most likely the bleach hair will look red or orange. If you are lucky to reach a level 7 it will still look very yellow. If this black haired client wanted red highlights, a second process involving the application of a level 5 or 6 red semi-permanent color could be applied to turn the highlights an even red tone.
Here is another example:
    If a client with light brown hair, level 6, wanted light blonde highlights you could mix the bleach lightener with 30 volume developer to achieve a level 9-10 highlight.
Also know that hydrogen peroxide developers are not only mixed with bleach but also with permanent color, or tint as we refer to it in the salon. If a clients hair is what we call “virgin hair,” hair that has never been dyed or received any other chemical service, you can use permeant hair dye mixed with the proper suggested ratio of hydrogen peroxide to lift the hair as well. For example if the client with light brown hair, level 6, had never died her hair, she could achieve a blond highlight by mixing 30 volume hydrogen peroxide developer with a level 10 permanent hair dye.
I hope my explanations and examples have helped you to understand how hydrogen peroxide effects a highlight service. Formulating hair color is complicated and is dependent on many factors. Knowing all the factors and how they effect one another is very important and is exactly why hairstylists like myself must be properly trained and licensed to perform these services in salons.
I hope I helped you, Cassie! And if you have any other questions please feel free to email me again. Just wondering, when is your science fair? Is this a written report? Do you have to provide a visual? Maybe if you let me know what you are planning to present I may be able to make some suggestions :)
Good Luck!
Lindsay Victory
Ps. Sorry I practically wrote a book! There is a lot to know!

Goldwell Color Zoom Challenge ’12

The passion inside me seems to be burning hotter each day. I keep coming across websites for the big trade shows in Long Beach, Las Vegas, New York, Chicago, and Orlando and their corresponding hair competitions and I can’t help but ask myself, “Could I do that?” I know this sounds cheesy but I know I can do whatever I want to. Chicago is the most easily accessible from my home here in metro Detroit but deadlines are this week. Hmmm….maybe next year? But wait! Look what I found!

http://www.colorzoom12.com/challenge12.html

I LOVE GOLDWELL! And with entries not due until May 31, 2012 I have plenty of time to do what I do. Brainstorm! Visualize! Sketch! PLAN! Continue with my monthly hair model series to improve on the photography and lighting set ups.

Each Finalist of The NATIONAL AWARDS for the USA Color Zoom Challenge 2012
will receive:

  1. $1,000 Cash Award
  2. Two (2) training/mentoring sessions at a Kao USA Academy facility, including round-trip air and 1-night’s hotel (estimated at $1,250 each)
  3. Package for 2 to London to compete in the live finale – includes competitor and model – valued at $7,500

If you win on the international level at the live, hands-on competition in London you will be awarded with the title Global Creative Colorist, Global New Talent Colorist or Global Partner Colorist. You will also become a member of the new international Color Zoom Creative Team that will create the next Color Zoom Collection 2014.

*The finalist is responsible for all taxes associated with the value awarded.

In addition to the great Awards Party, you will experience first and exclusively the launch of the Color Zoom Collection 2013. You will also have the opportunity to join inspiring “Look & Learn” seminars.

I would love to one day be part of a professional team, and I have my heart set on Goldwell. This is my first step of many in making this dream a reality.

Client Testimonial: Vanessa Haraszkiewicz

I have had fusion extensions for over 8 years. Lindsay Victory is by far the fastest, most efficient, professional extensionist I’ve worked with. She installed a full head of Donna Bella fusion extensions on me, which lasted 4 months. During this time I did not lose a single strand and could have left them in longer. Lindsay is extremely responsive; she is not flakey and always finds time to squeeze me in.

-Vanessa Haraszkiewicz (February 6, 2012)

Client Testimonial: Diana Zhou

This was my first time going to Lindsay (for color and a cut/style) and the first time I’ve gotten my hair professionally colored (I’ve only bleached it once at home, about 5 or 6 years ago). I went in with shoulder-length, natural black hair and we decided on a super cool asymmetric cut with hot pink/red/purple on top and a more natural purplish-black on the bottom (a bit hard to describe but trust me, it looks AMAZING!). I was a bit nervous about doing so much all at once, especially since I don’t dye my hair and especially not colors that bright, but Lindsay was awesome and kept me informed on what she was doing the whole time and I trusted that she knew what she was doing and that it wouldn’t look too over-the-top. The process took less time than I expected, which was great, especially because it felt like she took a lot of time making sure everything was perfect and not a hair was left un-dyed or out of place! I’ve gotten so many compliments on my hair and I’ve directed everyone to her at Beauty (Salon). Overall, I HIGHLY recommend her for color and cuts, especially if you’re not quite sure what you want or want to do something a little different, like fun colors or a cool, edgy style! She was really excited the entire time she was working on my hair, you can tell this is a stylist who loves what she does! (And it certainly doesn’t hurt that she’s darn good at it too!)

-Diana Zhou (February 6, 2012)

Client Testimonial: Casey Carskadon

I have visited the salon 3 times and each time I have been extremely happy each time. I have done everything from bright bold colors to multi-tonal natural colors. I recently had extensions done by her and my hair turned out gorgeous. The colors are beautiful and my natural hair blends perfectly. She is a great stylist and wants her clients to be pleased. I recommend her for all types of salon services.

-Casey Carskadon (November 7, 2011)

Client Testimonial: Lindsay Martinik

Lindsay always explains why and what she is doing to my hair. I trust her 100% and she knows that yet she wants me to feel comfortable.
I spent about 2 hours with Lindsay with this specific treatment. Lindsay also colors and cuts my hair. I like Lindsay because she does what I ask, and offers recommendations, but does not tell me what I want. Today Lindsay did a California Smooth Keratin Smoothing Treatment. I have pretty frizzy hair and she recommended this to calm that problem. I would recommend it to anyone with thick frizzy hair and I would definitely recommend Lindsay Victory for any of your hair treatment needs.

-Lindsay Martinik (November 7, 2011)

Client Testimonial: Corin Blust

Lindsay gives perfect haircuts and does gorgeous color! She is meticulous and really amazing at what she does. She always has the patience and vision to talk with me about what I want for a while, and then do exactly we think will be perfect. I love her haircuts, and I get compliments all the time. She took my hair from long to short recently and I am very happy with the cut.

I also love my color every time she does it. She knows how to do the best shade of blonde for me, and I always walk out of her salon feeling like a million bucks. I would definitely recommend Lindsay Victory!

-Corin Blust (November 8, 2011)