As a stylist I have a hard time keeping the same personal hairstyle for any real length of time. Yet I have been rockin’ the same black and pink ‘do for about a year. Then I read a stylist tip somewhere that if you are more willing to change your look, your clientel will be more likely to trust your to revamp their style. Makes sense, right? RIGHT!
As much as I have loved my sleek black hair and how healthy and shiny it was from a year of deposit only color (with exception to my Atomic Pink panels)….it was time to lighten things up. Brighten things up! Check out the before & after below!
To lighten hair that has been dyed black (multiple times over the past year) is often even harder to do than lighten naturally dark hair. I would never take on such a large project on my own so PLEASE do not try this at home or without the help of a licensed professional! My wonderful co-worker, Erika Doan, deserves many thanks and all of the credit for this transformation. Thanks Erika!
How did achieve my new look?
Goldwell System Color Remover
Goldwell Silk Lift High Performance Lightener – Up to 7 levels of lift
Goldwell Silk Lift Conditioning Cream Developer – 9% / 30 volume
2 Rusk Scream Rage Red
1 Rusk Scream Atomic Magenta
Moroccan Oil Treatment
STEP 1: At the shampoo bowl, Erika first mix the contents of two boxes of Goldwell System Color remover into and applicator bottle then evenly distributed it to my hair. Processing times suggest 5-20 minutes with the option of using heat. Knowing that my hair was going to be very resistant we put a processing cap on my head and I sat under the heat hood for about 15-20 minutes. Since the Goldwell system is so gentle to the hair we weren’t seeing a visible change so we decided to rinse, shampoo, condition and begin the bleaching process. Once my hair was washed and dried we could see that the color remover did indeed help to open up my cuticle and lifted the hair about 2-3 leaves. Almost to a level 4.
STEP 2: I mixed Goldwell Silk Lift High Performance Lightener with Goldwell Silk Lift Conditioning Cream Developer, 35 ml per scoop of lightener. It was first applied to Zone 2 (the midshaft) taking about 1/2 inch partings beginning at my neckline working her way up my head. Once applied to Zone 2 the lightener was pulled through my ends. After processing for 45 minutes, the maximum suggested processing time, we rinsed, shampoo and conditioned.
STEP 3: Zone 2 tends to be the most resistant and was still darker than zones 1 and 3. We mixed up the same formula of lightener and 30 volume and repeated the process on the midshaft then ends. This time we finished by applying the lightener to Zone 1 (New growth/Roots) for the last 10-15 minutes. THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED. Only apply 20 volume developer on-scalp. Anything higher may burn your scalp and/or be very uncomfortable. After approximately 30 minutes of processing we agreed that my hair seemed that it didn’t seem to be lifting any lighter. It is common that hair will only lift to a certain point in one session before it becomes more resistant and/or you chance damaging your hair. We achieved about a level 7 that was looking very orange. Luckily we would next be applying other warm toned that would work with, not against, this orange undertone. Rinse, shampoo, condition and blow-dry.
STEP 4: We combined both bottles of Rusk Scream Rage Red with one bottle of Rusk Scream Atomic Magenta in a color bowl and Erica applied color with a tint brush from roots to ends. Beware, this color product has a very loose consistency and is VERY messy. I would not suggest trying to apply this yourself. Once applied, we placed a processing cap over it and let it process for approximately 1 hour. The Rusk Scream bottle suggests 5-20 minutes. From my personal experience with punky colors, the longer you process the better. I even sat under the heat hood for about 20-30 minutes.
STEP 5: Rinse with cool or luke warm water. Cold water helps close the hairs cuticle which will help preserve the color. Temporary and semi permanent “punky” colors will fade continue to bleed and wash out with each shampoo. After towel drying my hair, Erika applied a Moroccan Oil treatment while damp, then blow-dried and styled my hair as usual.
Try to Shampoo less frequently. Try going an extra day! Also using a dry shampoo will help cleanse the hair and reduce the appearance of greesiness between washes. My favorite dry shampoo is Big Sexy Hair’s Volumizing Dry Shampoo. It works great and smells even better!
Continue using cool water when shampooing.
Use a sulfate-free shampoo. Anything in the Pureology line works great. They are all formulated with a sulfate-free anti-fade complex. The best for this particular scenario of bleaching would be Pureology’s Essential Repair line. It is my favorite line to repair any damage done by these chemical services. Its also seems to preserve color for longer than any other product I have used.
I typically used Special Effects semi-permanent hair dye but they have had serious backorders lately and was forced to try Rusk Scream. I intend to switch back when I receive my next color order, however, I will update everyone on Rusk’s Scream line with each shampoo!
Thursday, January 26, 2012:
Day 1 – hair bleached & dyed
Friday, January 27, 2012:
Day 2 – didn’t not shampoo my hair (wore shower cap), Flat ironed hair and applied extension in sides for My Little Pony hair!
Saturday, January 28, 2012:
Day 3: Hair was looking a slightly greasy, however I did not get it wet again.
Used a cap in the shower then used TIGI Play Dirty Dry Shampoo and curled my hair to disguise the need to shampoo.
Sunday, January 29, 2012:
Day 4: Shampooed my hair for the first time, using Pureology Hydrate and Essential Repair shampoos mixed together and Essential Repair Conditioner. My hair never rinsed clear, as expected. Below is a photo taken after blowdrying after the first shampoo. Color still looks bright!
Monday, January 30, 2012:
Day 5: No Shampoo, used shower cap!
Tuesday, January 31, 2012:
Day 6: Dry Shampoo Only.
Wednesday, February 1, 2012:
Day 7: Shampooed with Pureology Hydrate and conditioned with Pureology Essential Repair. The color is definitely fading but was still an acceptable tone.
Thursday, Feburary 2, 2012:
Day 8: I arrived at work and Erica immediately commented on how we needed to do something about the red in my hair. After informing here that the Special Effects I ordered through Amazon arrived yesterday it was inevitable that we were going to dye it.
Sorry I didn’t see the Rusk Scream line all the way through but based on what I have experienced over the past week, here is my review…
Rusk Scream Semi-Permanent hair dye
I don’t particularly like the consistency of the product itself. It is quite thin and runny. It would be a disaster to try to apply yourself and remains a bit messy even with a professional application.
I like the color and the dyes turn out vibrant. But seem to dull after just a couple shampoos (even with color safe sulfate free shampoo)
The color continues to bleed with every shampoo. Seems to be just as much as the first shampoo. I wouldn’t want to get caught in the ran with this color on my head and you can forget about swimming!
Since Rusk is a professional product line, only licensed cosmetologist would easily purchase this product. I WOULD NOT recommend this line for professional use in a salon. It you want happy clients, there are better options out there!
Sectioned from ear to ear through the apex to separate the front from the back. Only the back section was touched up from roots to ends with a mix of Special Effects Nuclear Red and Candy Apple Red.